Monthly Archives: January 2014

Vineyards and pedal power – Adelaide

Well the time finally came when we had to hit civilisation after few weeks in the scrub. We were looking forward to some regularity (not),  a real ‘hole in the ground’ and a nice long hot shower. Adelaide, although a big country town compared to its cousins, still seemed huge when you have been regional for a while. Our intensions were to catch up with the biggest cycle race in the southern hemisphere (Tour Down Under – TDU), sample arguably some of the worlds greatest Shiraz wines and make base while Wendy attends her old uni mates (Nicole) wedding across the state in Melbourne.

Weather wise we were in luck, temperatures had started to drop back down into the low 30s and the nights were coolish (2 dog nites). We camped at the local aerodrome in Gawler, with the kids (and adults) having fun in the evenings riding up and down the airstrip. Barossa Valley was our first port of call where we caught up with the first stage of the TDU. Hence started a tradition for the week of purchasing a bottle of vino and some local produce (cheese, olives, smoked meat, bread), sitting along side the road then waiting for the riders to pass by. What a life I could do this forever, but our GP would not agree. So on a couple of the days we also got into the spirit of cycling and pedalled around some of the bike friendly tracks in the region – of course they just happened to majestically pass by several wineries, which we felt obliged to visit.

Riders climbing Menglers Hill

Riders climbing Menglers Hill

 

Doing our own tour down under

Doing our own tour down under

 

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Was a great buzz watching the tour and we were lucky enough to witness probably the best one in its 15 year history. All the riders were world class and the race was dominated by the aussies Simon Gerrans, Richie Porte and Cadel Evans. The crowds were amazing and as passionate as they are in Europe. Although Evans surprised everyone with his pre grand tour form, including a classic stage win over corkscrew hill, it was Gerrans and the Orica Greenedge team that finished on top of the podium. While Wendy took off to Melbourne, Chris and the kids perched themselves on the famous Willunga Hill for the last big climb of the event along with thousands of others. With all the drug controversies dominating cycling recently it was evident the sport is still as popular as ever down under.

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Cadel

Cadel

Simon Gerrans on top of Willunga Hill with the Ochre jersey

Simon Gerrans on top of Willunga Hill with the Ochre jersey

Enough of the cycling, it was back to relaxing on the coast in Port Willunga which is home to beautiful limestone backdrop beaches and blue water. We are due for some real hot temperatures in the next few days, so its beach time in the mornings and late afternoons, with some caravan and pool time in between. The van park has movies and bands and the kids are always entertained. Australia day was very busy on the beach, with partying continuing into the early hours. With the famous McClaren Vale wineries only minutes away and this gorgeous coastline, this is definitely a retirees dream destination (but I guess Ill be saying that everywhere).

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Australia day on Aldinga beach. 'Only in SA'

Australia day on Aldinga beach. ‘Only in SA’OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

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Leaving the Murray River

The temperatures finally cooled down to a nice 35 degrees and we bid farewell to Mildura. Chris had made some friends with the local tackle shop workers and young Darcy (a keen fisho and future environmental scientist) was keen to get out on the water. Although the pair only managed a couple of ‘yellas’ on the ‘bong’, stories of metre long cod in these waters kept them interested. Thanks for the company Darcy, and no doubt you will one day be a major player in ensuring the survival and sustainability of this great river.

On the 'bong'

On the ‘bong’

The travelling show moved on and jumped into SA (clocks back 1/2 hr) stopping along the way in Renmark. On the outskirts of town we miraculously found a brewery situated in an old woodshed overlooking the river. Wherever you went along the river these little hidden gems would crop up to tantalise your thirst and taste buds. Of course we had to pay homage to Banrock Station – as we had drunk so much of their cask wine over the years.

At the woodshed brewery

At the woodshed brewery

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The river had also changed dramatically now that we had crossed the border. The river gums and red soil gave way to sand and limestone cliffs, this dramatic landscape so typical of this state. We had now also entered the world of houseboats and massive overnight paddle steamers. The width of this river ensured everyone had a go – fishers, skiers, irrigators etc. There was even talk of NSW and VIC not leaving enough water for them. Little did they know the Snowy River in NSW (just a stones throw from our farm) was dammed and rediverted to satisfy water consumption on the Murray – but lets not get into the politics of it all now (what do you mean it yours, its ours!!).

We have throughly enjoyed following the Murray on the first steps of our journey. You really do get a sense of how this river is the lifeblood of these inland towns. We won’t forget the sunsets, the river and its people, and yes the intense heat that this land generates. It was a good work out for the car, the van and the family. A last couple of relaxing  days by the water at Walkers Flat and we are ready to head to Adelaide and the coast to continue on our journey. Thanks Murray !

Movie time on the river

Movie time on the river

'Yabbying'

‘Yabbying’

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Kids not fighting

Kids not fighting

Lake Mungo and Mildura

After saying goodbye to Judy and Allan we headed west downstream along the Murray towards Mildura. On the way we stopped the night at a rest area in a place called Nyah. This was the start of 7 days of maximum temperatures well into the 40s. As it was only going to get hotter later in the week we decided that it was better to visit Mungo National Park at 40C than 45C. This place was only 100km on dirt road from Mildura but a thousand miles from nowhere, so we ditched the van for a couple of days. The road to Mungo was narrow in places, sandy, but good. When we got there you were overwhelmed by the distinct lack of vegetation apart from salt bush with more desert like features- this was surely not a lake!!.

It is a light beer

It is a light beer

Driving to Mungo

Driving to Mungo

Ever since a work colleague (Charlie Gray) mentioned this place I knew we had to go there. This was where the aboriginal remains of ‘Mungo lady’ and ‘Mungo man’ were found during the last few decades. The remains dated back forty thousand years ago and were representative of the earliest cremation and celebration of human deaths recorded. The  erosion of sand over time meant that aboriginal artefacts and evidence of occupation were constantly being exposed.

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We spent two nights at Mungo national park where we camped under the stars in swags.  We were fortunate enough to be shown around one morning by a guide named Ivan who was very passionate and knowledgable about the importance of the place. The best time to be out and about  was fading light. Not so much because it was cooler but more because you could feel the place. What was once a bountiful lake that served so many people was now so desolate, so beautiful and sacred that it oozed with soul. Even the kids enjoyed the isolation. People in Mildura thought we were mad to head out there. In reality we had left the madness behind.

Ivan

Ivan

Never seen so many emus

Never seen so many emus

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It was time to head back from the furnace (Mungo) and into the fire (Mildura). We decided now was the time to venture into the world of caravan parks. The feeling was that the fridge in the van would not be able to put up with the temperatures and either would we. So we booked into Buronga riverside park that had electricity and a swimming pool. The plan was to visit shopping centres, libraries and swimming pools during the heat of the day, then bed down in an oven of a van at night. We stayed four nights in total and man it was hot – even the locals were using the word ‘sickening’. On one of the nights at midnight it was reading 40.1C in town. We went through two electrical fans and a crap load of ice.

Check the outside temp

Check the outside temp

But survive we did and had a great time in Mildura – this place is an oasis in the middle of nowhere. Apart from visiting the library and cinema we also went on the “Melbourne” which was an original wood fired paddle steamer. The kids also enjoyed the local wave pool and ‘orange world’. On one of the nights we met up with Andrew Driscoll, a local fisheries compliance officer, who is a mate of one of Chris’s work colleagues. Andrew and his family regularly visit Kangaroo Island and provided us with some great information for when we visit there next month. The whole family made us feel right at home and the bbq squid (care of KI) and ‘aussie/greek salad’ was second to none – Thanks Andrew, Mat, Zoe and Sophie, and guess what Dylan now wants a pet rat.

Kids at the library

Kids at the library

kids at 'orange world'

kids at ‘orange world’

Enjoying the cruise

Mum enjoying the cruise

Yabbies were delicious

The local yabbies were delicious