The Gulf – Darwin to Mount isa

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Leaving Darwin we picked up our van that we had left with our sister in laws sisters family while staying in the apartment. Helen, Mark and the kids were happy for us to spend a night before heading off, and we were treated to some great hospitality NT style. The house was set up for the Darwin climate and had a great bar room and boys toys area downstairs. Mark treated us to the best steaks we had eaten all trip. Hence the following morning we hit the local butcher (halal!!) to stock up on supplies for the journey ahead. It’s always nice to meet some real people on the road, even if for just for one night.

Bar room NT style

Heading down the main highway out of Darwin we camped at Edith Falls before spending a couple of days in Mataranka Springs. We were heading towards the gulf and some big days in the car were required. After hitting Daly Waters we headed east towards Heart Break Hotel. This place had a chequered history, being one of the biggest brothels in the top end only twenty years ago. Sitting at the crossroads we got to share a beer with many characters, including tourists, fisherman truckies, stockman and the indigenous. We were well looked after and they allowed us to leave our caravan there so we could travel to the more remote regions with our swags.

Don’t you love this place!!

Edith Falls

Mataranka Springs

Bitter springs

First top was Lorella Springs, a large station on the edge of the gulf. This property was very remote and we virtually had it to ourselves. Because it was the end of the dry there was not much water around and the temperatures were now in the mid-thirties. Nevertheless we had a great time visiting the points of interest and vowed to come back again one day just after the wet. The next place we visited was King Ash Bay on the Macarthur River just north of Boorooloola. Amongst the heat and dust we were very surprised at the facilities available in this little oasis. Not only was there fresh cheap fruit and vegetables available, but the remote camping on the river and the fishing were second to none. Adding to that the fishing club had cold beers, great pizzas and internet (the kids liked this one). Chris went fishing down the islands with a local and bought back enough fish to keep the tribe happy for a while. There were enough waterways here to keep any fisherman happy, but the heat was telling us it was time to start moving on.

The Lost city

King Ash Bay

The club

After a couple of days driving and overnight free camping, we finally crossed the border into QLD. Although we had only spent about a month in NT it was good to be able to revisit places, as well as find some new ones. No matter when you visit the top end, the crocs, the back burning, the people and the culture surrounding the area (even in the 21^st century) always makes you feel like you are on an adventure. With eight and a half months of the trip completed the remainder of the trip would be in QLD and what better way to start than the mining town of Mount Isa. Apart from visiting a mine-shaft and “School of the Air” Aimee and Dylan got to celebrate fathers day with their daddy. Mum reckons everyday is fathers day in the Walsh household (caravan!).

Swagmans Hall of Fame (Cammoweal)

Lovely Mt Isa?

Going underground

School of the air

Happy Fathers day

NT Border to Darwin

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Lake Argyle

Ord River

Finally in the NT

Can you believe Dads wallet travelled for 100km in this position – Yes we can!!!

We picked up the van from Kununurra after the Kimberley trek and headed for the WA/NT border. Along the way we stayed our last night in WA at Lake Argyle. The Ord River scheme is massive with this large body of water its centre piece. After travelling through this dry state for the last five or so months it was ironic that we left WA where water is so abundant. The Walsh family certainly had a great time in WA and it was everything we had envisaged –the isolation, the red dirt, the turquoise water, and sunsets you never grow tired of. In a way we finally got to see the ‘real’ Australia.

“Thanks WA”

Welcome to the Northern Territory. The scenery was now starting to change and it was not long before we would start smelling smoke – controlled burns are the way up here. After spending the night in Timber Creek we travelled along the scenic Victoria River before spending the night just north of Katherine. Wendy and Chris spent almost 10 weeks in NT 10 years ago and this time around we would visit places and sites we had not seen before. Importantly, we were going catch up with Nanny and Uncle Pete who were coming to see us in Darwin. We could not resist taking the long way to Darwin and revisiting the famous Kakadu National Park. This is a park often overlooked, or not liked by the grey nomads. Many travellers like easy access and everything close by so they can ‘tick the box’. However, we loved its solitude, its rugged beauty and probably most of all its cultural significance. The connection between the land and indigenous people here is very strong and wonderful to experience.

Victoria River

Gunlom Falls Kakadu NP

‘Lightning man”

Yellow Waters billabong

Aunty Patsy showing us how its done

Kakadu sunset

All budgets enjoying Kakadu

After Kakadu we headed off to Darwin and spent a couple of days catching up with the Stenhouse and Martin families at Howard Springs. It was washing time, restocking food supplies, catching up on travelling stories and giving the kids a play together, before heading into the ‘big smoke’. Although we had been here before Darwin is a great city, laid back and easy to get around. This time we got to live it in style and the weather was gorgeous. Nanny shouted us all five nights in a beautiful apartment at Cullen Bay Marina – sublime!! The kids got spoilt with their in-ground pool, Dad got to enjoy hanging out and not doing too much, while Mum enjoyed the facilities – not having to shower with her thongs on was great bonus. Best of all it was great to spend time with Nanny and Pete. Thanks for the recharge guys before we head across to the east.

Movie night

The apartment view

Jumping crocodiles – Adelaide River

Watching the footy with Uncle Pete

“Sweetheart” at the Museum

The ‘crew’

The Kimberley trek – Gibb River Road

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The trouble makers!!!

Getting ready for the big trek

On our last trip 10 years ago, the Gibb River Rd was the highlight of our trip and one that we wanted to repeat, in particular, the north-eastern part of the region which we had previously missed due to extensive flooding. We spent a few days in Kununurra having a look around, getting supplies ready for the trip, and catching up with Wendys mum, Allan, Uncle John and Bev. These guys came across from Katherine to see us and we all camped at the showground in town. For the 2-week Kimberley trip we set up the engel in the car as a freezer and stocked it with frozen meat, chicken etc., milk and water bottles. Every day the frozen water bottles would be transferred across to the esky to keep the perishables cool. Of course fresh caught fish would be welcome addition along the way. To do something different we commenced the journey via Wyndham via Parrys Creek. This dirt road traversed the lower Ord River via some natural springs and included our first wild sighting of a crocodile for the trip in the stunning Parrys Lagoon. After Stopping in at Wyndham for a pub meal we said goodbye to our relatives and moved on to Diggers Rest Station on the northern flank of the Cockburn Ranges.

Lower Ord River

Parrys Lagoon

Five Rivers Lookout

Prison Boab Tree

Diggers Rest Station was a good place to start the trek, all very rustic and with scenery to die for – much of it was used in the movie ‘Australia’. Best of all you could finish the day with a beer around the campfire. After consultation with the owner we decided continue on our journey and take the more scenic Karunjie track to the Pentecost River. We were glad we did as this was a definite highlight of the trip. The absolute isolation driving along the claypans in the shadow of the Cockburn ranges was something we will always remember – outback oz in all its glory. After crossing the Pentecost River we spent the night in a bush camp at Ellenborough Station and the following morning we tasted some of their famous scones. The Gibb River road had recently been graded and was much better condition then we had previously experienced.

Catching up with some work

Cockburn Range

It was a different story on our way up Kalumbaru Rd. The road to Drysdale Station and then onto King Edward River camp was pretty ordinary and heavily corrugated. We spent two nights at King River because it had some fantastic croc-free swimming holes and aboriginal art sites that were not even on the map. Wendy located a book in Kununurra that described and located these unique engravings that most tourists just passed by unawares.

Our first Brolga

Next stop was the big bucket list tick off, being the famous Mitchell River Falls. The road in was 70km but took 2.5 hours and was clearly the worst we had experienced so far, however, it was all worth it. The first afternoon we spent out at Surveyors pool then venturing onto a lookout over the great Kimberley coast. The next morning we hiked into the falls, checking out the art sights and swimming holes along the way. We were lucky to have most of the day to ourselves and were in awe at the grandeur of the whole place. After one final swim above the falls we treated ourselves to a helicopter ride back to the camp. That night we were privileged to listen to a talk and slide show by the local ranger on the area during the wet season. This truly was one perfect day.

Surveyors Pool

Walmesly Bay

Quoll

Chopper Time

We had made it this far trouble free so it was inevitable that we would make the final journey to Kalumburu – a remote aboriginal mission on the north coast. The road was much better than expected and we got there from the King Edward turn off in under a few hours. Surprisingly, the few shops there were well stocked with reasonably priced fruit, vegetables and perishables, as this place is regularly serviced by a barge from Darwin. We camped at McGowans Island, just 20km from the mission, adjacent the beach. All the campers staying here were super friendly with offers of freshly caught jewfish, Spanish mackerel and plenty of other reef species. Chris and the kids managed to get on a few boat rides to get amongst the fishing action. Although this place was arguably the most remote and distant location we had visited from home, we vowed that one day we would get back here again – of course with a capable fishing boat in tow!

Catholic church

King Edward River

McGowans Beach

After four nights in Kalumburu we started the long journey back to Kununurra stopping along the way at Miners pool then treating ourselves to a few days at the upmarket El Questro station. Chris and Wendy had visited here last time and were very impressed, even though it was very comercialised. Ten years on we were hesitant about the experience we were going to have. However, with most tourists having moved on, and with a million acres to roam, we found it easy to enjoy the stations natural beauty, and at night we enjoyed the entertainment at the ‘Swinging arm’ bar. El Questro was a fitting place to end our great Kimberley Trek. Its not the destination but the journey that made this trip so special – the simplicity of sleeping in swags, sitting around the campfire, absorbing the culture, swimming in pristine water holes and observing (and catching!) nature in all its glory. Of all the beautiful and remote places we have visited this trip, the Kimberleys still continues to punch well above its weight.

Its only a freshie!!

Miners Pool

Pentecost River

Swinging Arm Bar

El Questro Gorge

Zebedee Springs