Welcome to Broome!

Well after making the long trek up the west coast we finally reached the destination branded on our website, the furthest point from home on our big lap around Australia – Broome. The car up until this point (without incident or puncture) had accomplished 23000km in 6 and a half months of travel. We were now well into the trip and seasoned travellers. Chris and Wendy previously visited this place in 2004 after a couple of months travel through the outback. It was an oasis back then and we looked forward to spending time here showing the kids around and hanging out at this famous location. Just being in one spot for an extended time is a bonus when on the road. Apart from getting to eat some good fresh food we managed to get out and do some touristy things. The kids really enjoyed visiting the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park and getting up close to the exhibits. This area was pretty much the start of encountering these big reptiles and gaining healthy respect for their dominance of the waterways.

Oldest running picture theatre in the world

We met up with the Stenhouse family again and enjoyed several activities including dinner at a local restaurant, visiting the local markets and enjoying the world renowned sunsets on Cable Beach. We were lucky enough to be in town for the ‘staircase to the moon’ phenomena, which coincides with the full moon – an event that you can never grow tide of. The Broome races were on while we were there – unfortunately it was their coldest July day (only 16C maximum) on record. The rest of the weeks weather however was absolutely perfect. To cap it off Chris and Wendy got to see their favourite indigenous outback band from last trip doing a one night only gig at the Roebuck Hotel. As kids were not allowed in, the adaptive Walsh family quickly resorted to sitting on the roof of the car outside the venue with a great view of the band. Dad and Mum could still have a beer and the kids got to sing along with music they had been hearing since they were born – Absolute gold!!!

Cable Beach

Adults enjoying themselves too!!

Staircase to the moon

We decided in Broome that we would focus our Kimberleys trek on its eastern side as extensive flooding in 2004 prevented Chris and Wendy from enjoying some of the places. So we travelled on the black top with the caravan in tow to Kununurrra via Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek. These towns were both aboriginal communities struggling to live in the modern era. Yes they had all the facilities and supplies available but there was no motivation from the bottom end to do more than collect welfare and spend it on fast food and booze. No evidence of strong aboriginal culture here, just towns full of lost people (who has the answer!!). Our final destination before basing ourseleves in Kununurra was to revisit Purnululu National Park (The Bungle Bungles). We left the caravan at the 24 hour road stop and drove the last 50 km (2hrs) into Kurrajong camp ground. This year the road was a lot better than 2004 and we enjoyed 3 nights in this very special place. The rock formations (Beehives) and chasms here are like no other and is a place you could never afford to miss on your travels. We were lucky enough at night to enjoy the company of Garry and Trish from NSW and Daz and Kaz from Victoria. There were many laughs around the campfire and as usual we absorbed vital travelling information and tips for our journey ahead.

Station walk
Piccininny Ck

Cathedral gorge

Echinda chasm

Chopper time

Birds eye view

Based on the good oil from ‘Daz’ we stopped off on the final leg to Kununurra at Molly Springs and Harrys Hole. Sometimes the best place in the world is the one not on the tourist trail, not even sign posted, and you got it all to yourselves..now thats what its all about!!!

Harrys hole

Molly Springs

After having a fantastic time on Ningaloo reef it was time to head inland and discover the natural beauty of the Pilbara region. This was a land of contrasts – national parks surrounded by aboriginal and mining communities. It was amazing to witness the extent and influence of the mining industry up here. Everything is just so expensive – how long till the bubble bursts? it happening as we speak. After driving a few hundred kilometres we stopped on the side of the road at Horseshoe Ck for an overnight camp before another long drive to Tom Price. Situated 700m above sea level, this place, not surprisingly was well stocked with supplies and  a perfect base for visiting Karijini National Park – another jewel in the crown for WA tourism.

In all we stayed 4 nights at Dales Campground within the National Park. The campground was a beauty with large private bushy sites and very close to one of the main gorges. The first day we did some short hikes in the adjacent gorge which was crowded, especially as only a 2wd was required to visit here – hence it was backpacker central. Nevertheless, it was stunning and the warmish days were rewarded with a couple of swims in some of the icy pools. It was not surprising they were so cold with temperatures dropping to five degrees at night. Not since Oberon (NSW) at the start of the trip have we experienced the weather this cold.

Bean Pool

Dale gorge

Circular pool

The following day we visited Weano and Hancock gorges which were even more stunning. The kids had a great time traversing the tight rocky areas, which you would not want to be in when there is rain threatening. We also managed to time it right at Hancock gorge in which we had all it to ourselves. On the final day we hiked up nearby Mt Bruce and then drove for over an hour to  Hammersley gorge. This place was unique in its rock structure and the colours in the low light were particularly amazing. Overall, Karijini definitely lived up to its big reputation and should never be left out when visiting the North West.

Weano gorge

Hancock gorge

Hammersley gorge

Dylan with his Karijini Rangers badge

We headed out of Karijini for towards the coast, staying for one night at Indee station. It was here we attended our very first grey nomad happy hour and quickly realised why we had avoided them all trip (we are not that old yet!). In the morning we visited Red Rock ( a mini version of Ayers Rock) along with our first glimpse of aboriginal engravings. The next objective of the trip (and a main one of the kids) was to visit the Red Dog Statue in Dampier. We free camped a couple of nights in Cleareville Bay, just near Karratha and spent time driving around the coast and picking up supplies after our inland visit. The towns were not really exciting but one thing that Dad did miss was having a boat . The islands off Dampier are renowned for spectacular blue-water fishing. Never mind we were looking forward to our next stretch of travelling before arriving in Broome (and the kids got to watch the Red Dog movie again for the thousandth time).

Up against a bull catcher – Indee Station

Red rock

Red Dog

We finally found one – Sturts desert pea

The stretch between Port Headland and Broome was only some 600km but only limited accommodation existed along this stretch of coastline – Pardoo Station, Eighty Mile Beach, Port Smith and Barnhill Station – and yes we visited all of them. Pardoo and Port Smith were by far the pick of the spots. From their good facilities and stocked general stores through to their fantastic fishing. Again we were told by semi- permanent residents  ‘not to fish there as the tides were not right, or you’ll get bogged etc. –  only to experience hot land-based fishing sessions which now included mud crabs. This was the land of big tides, long deserted beaches and mangrove lined inlets. We were fortunate enough to experience all this with a couple of families that were also doing the big lap including Greg and Danielle from the Gold coast along with their kids Tye and Ruby. The adults got to spend some “Happy hour” time on their own while the the children got their “ kids fix”. This is what its all about !!!!

Bloody nomads

Mustering at Pardoo

Eighty mile beach

Port Smith

Nice one!!

Happy hour

The world famous Barnhill ‘snot block’

Roebuck Bay

Situated just above the Tropic of Capricorn is a town called Carnarvon, which signifies the start of cyclone country during the warmer months of the year. Fortunately for us in winter time it means beautiful warm days and clear cool nights. Carnarvon is also the food bowl of the North-West with plentiful fruit and vegetable produce grown in the region. We spent a couple of days stocking up on fresh food here as well as checking out the local sights. On the advice of a grey nomad months previous we had dinner one night at an obscure pub on the foreshore. We were not disappointed with Chris ordering a large plate of homemade steak pie chips and gravy with a middy of beer for the princely sum of $10 – in W.A. (or anywhere else) you cant beat that!!!.

Fresh food at last

Telegraph Station

Carnarvon Space Observatory

After leaving Carnarvon we spent three nights at the Quobba Blowholes just 70km away on the coast. This place represented the start of the Ningaloo reef which we had been looking forward to all trip. Our first real reef snorkel of the trip at ‘the aquarium’ did not disappoint as the corals and fish were world class. As the reef was enclosed in a lagoon right off the beach meant this place was super kid friendly and Aimee and Dylan had a ball. On our second dive we also got to see our first W.A. green turtle, something that would soon be a regular occurrence. In the afternoons we explored Quobba Stations many beaches and lookouts – what a place to have a farm.

Blowholes

The Aquarium

Red Bluff 

Continuing on the station theme we went on to stay at Warroora Station just below Coral Bay. This inexpensive bush beach camp is a winter home for many southern grey nomads and big enough to escape from every one. Aside from fishing we spent most of the days swimming and snorkelling. As usual in W.A. the wind blew hard during some parts of the day, but we were now getting used to it (Maybe!). After the bush camping, we were ready to hit the crowds of Coral Bay. This place is on everyones bucket list and it is not hard to see why. Although there are only a few expensive shops, a couple of caravan parks and a multitude of grey nomads and European Backpackers, the place is stunning. The water is crystal clear, the weather was good (Chris had great success on a fishing charter) and the nearby beaches and snorkelling are first class. To top it off the caravan park had generous caravan spots and green grass!!! – a nice change from all that red dirt. Ningaloo was definitely making a good impression on the Walshes.

Waroora Station

Peoples Caravan Park

More Snorkelling (Dylan with his new fins)

‘Spangalies’

More fish for dinner

On the way to Exmouth, we hit some bad weather so we stopped into Bullara Station for a few days. This was a cattle station – a small one at that (only 250,000 acres). We had communal camp fires and got to meet some interesting people working on the farm. Aimee got friendly with the station girl (Lucy) and learnt many aspects of farm life. Once the weather cleared we made our way up to Exmouth – the most northerly point of Ningaloo Reef. Surprisingly, we were lucky to get a low cost camping ground in Cape Range National Park. Hence we were close to all the great snorkelling areas and gorges this park is famous for. As with most of the trip our activities we were not guided by the clock but by the strength of the sun, the wind and tide heights. Most of the snorkelling spots (including turquoise bay and oysters stacks) were best on the top of the tide, while the gorge walks were best don’t earlier in the day. With no internet reception this is one place you definitely forget about the rest of the world. Importantly, Chris got to tick off the top of his bucket list for the trip – a dive with the whale sharks. A day he will never forget.

Cricket on the road

Bullara Station

Exmouth

Yardie Ck Gorge

Turqouise Bay

Oyster stacks

Mandu Mandu gorge

Sandy Bay